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David Schuyler Matthews Photography

Five Countries in 18 days!

12/21/2013

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I just returned from a whirlwind trip to the other side of the world. I spent time in Dubai, Singapore, Malaysia, Cambodia, and Thailand and in order to do that much in 18 days I had to keep the sightseeing focused and spend a lot of time in the air. My flights were US (Dulles/Washington DC)-->Dubai-->Sri Lanka (never got to leave the airport here unfortunately but I have hopes of returning)-->Singapore-->Kuching (Malaysia on the island of Borneo)-->Siem Reap (Cambodia)-->Phuket (Thailand)-->Singapore-->Dubai-->Washington DC. Nine flights in all. I may have been a bit crazy to pack this much in but sometimes you just have to go for it!

What started this whole crazy trip was that my uncle, a resident of Singapore, asked if I wanted to take a motorcycle trip from Thailand to Cambodia. Those plans fell through but it got my interest peaked to really explore this part of Asia. And by flying Emirates Air, I was able to work in a 24 hour layover in Dubai to bookmark both ends of my trip. How did I decide on each country? Well, I wanted a balanced mix of city life and nature.  

Singapore and Dubai fulfilled my desires to see cities on the cutting edge. The entire country of Singapore is only 14 miles by 26 miles. The British influence is still felt in its schooling, the subtle British accent that accompanies Singaporean English, and driving on the left side of the road. However, there is also a heavy Chinese and Malay influence as well given that Malaysia is a short jaunt by car from Singapore across a bridge. It is becoming a hub for Western businesses in the Asian market and in many ways is almost a utopia given the low levels of violent crime and drugs and high standard of living (albeit expensive). I guess it helps to curb bad behavior when violent crimes and drug trafficking are followed by swift punishments and often times with mandatory death sentences. I haven't posted any shots of Singapore because it is the least interesting visually - which is not to discount the city at all because it has much to offer - and many of the photos I took were family shots.

Dubai on the other hand felt like a city under construction and feels a bit like Las Vegas with a Muslim influence. It will undoubtedly continue to rise in power as money seems to be pouring in for more and more state of the art buildings which include the world's tallest, Burj Khalifa, an indoor ski resort, and an artificial island in the shape of a palm tree with houses and a beach resort at the top of the "palm".  I noticed that Arabs seemed to be the minority when walking around. When I took rides on their efficient and spotless Metro system I was often surrounded by Indians and Filipinos. I suspect because they are the ones brought in to do all of construction and lower level jobs.   I didn't have enough time to leave the downtown area but I would imagine that the shangri la feeling of this area drops off when you get into the real desert and into the poorer areas where the workers live. I have to admit that I was drawn to Dubai to see Media City (approx 2 million sq feet of entertainment and media companies) because the lure of being able to work in television (my profession) and not have to pay taxes in Dubai is very tempting. Dubai is definitely a paradise for shoppers from the world's largest Dubai Mall to the gold and spice souks. 

Dubai photos:

Kuching (Borneo, Malaysia) exceeded my expectations of seeing unusual wildlife and vistas. From the orangutan sanctuaries to hiking in Bako National Park (which required an hour bus ride, a 30 minute speedboat trip in the South China Sea, and wading to the shore before even getting to the visitor center!) it was all breathtaking. The town of Kuching - which means "city of cats" and there were many statues of cats throughout the city - is a small town built along the Sarawak River. The historic longhouses are becoming a thing of the past but it was interesting to see some examples which still had human skulls - enemies killed by warriors - bundled together and hanging from the rafters. For good luck or to scare off intruders or bad spirits? I'm not exactly sure but it is certainly ominous looking.  It was monsoon season so I did get caught in some nasty downpours but it was all part of the experience. After walking through the outdoor markets I would either eat something like mee mamak (Malay noodles), chicken rice, or some laksa (a spicy, noodle soup dish). I could very easily eat rice or noodle dishes the rest of my life and be completely content. And it was all incredibly inexpensive. Usually about $2 or so for a sizeable helping and maybe $0.75 for a delicious smoothie using fresh coconuts, papaya, or mango. All followed by a relaxing riverboat ride at the end of the day while hearing the evening prayers of the local Muslims over speakers echoing from both sides of the river. I didn't buy much at the markets but I did walk away with some peppercorn to bring home since that is grown locally.

Kuching photos/video:
Siem Reap (Cambodia) was chosen primarily for the Angkor Wat temple. I didn't realize until I was in Cambodia that there were actually dozens of temples. Angkor Wat tends to be the one that is referenced the most because it is the most beautiful and the carvings are the most ornate or at least time has been kinder to it. Some of the temples go back to 800AD, and since that time the Vietnamese, French, Hindus, and others have all managed to desecrate the Buddhist temples in one way or another during takeovers. And even within Cambodia, their civil war can still be felt in the many bullet holes that pepper the temples. Thankfully many countries are now seeing the benefit to preserving the structures and  are spending time to clean and restore the temples. One Japanese company has spent 10 years on a single corner so it is not an easy task given their fragility. I was told that after you see a few of the temples they will all start to look the same. While I can agree that after 10 hours of hiking up and down temple stairs it can become a little overwhelming in the hot sun, I wouldn't say they all felt the same. You have to use your imagination a little to try to visualize how they used to be. Rooms painted in gold leafing and lined with jewels and beautiful etchings - that had to be done without mistakes because the sandstone blocks were laid in place before any etchings could commence - telling the stories of fables and the country's history and battles. It took thousands of elephants and slaves pulling the stones from quarries to build these temples. They are on par with the Egyptian pyramids in terms of their historic significance and scale.

Aside from the temples, I was touched by the kind nature of the Cambodian people. From our tuk tuk driver to the workers in our humble bed and breakfast. And I would also have to say that they have an innate bravery given their history and also the fact that an entire family (mother, father, 2 kids, and a grandmother) can all balance on a motorcycle! I have to mention that I ate my first fried cricket but I was not brave enough for snake or tarantula. I'm not sure I'll ever be ready to try those. Siem Reap has a fun downtown area with bars and restaurants and a night market where you can negotiate cheap textiles and other gifts.

Siem Reap photos/video:
By the time I got to Phuket (Indonesia) I think I was ready for a bit of a resort which is what I got (and I don't have many photos to show for it!). I just wanted to sit by a pool and the beach and take in everything that I had seen. Phuket has become famous for being one of the areas that was hit hardest in the 2005 tsunami. I have seen footage of it on Youtube at some resorts just like the one I stayed but it is too much to even imagine. Thankfully, at least at Surin Beach where I was staying, it shows no trace of the tsunami. Phuket, and particularly the Patong Beach area, tend to be known for its natural beauty but also a bit of a debaucherous nightlife scene where most of the tourists party. I considered venturing over to Patong on my last night to check it out but the decision was made for me when it started to storm on my last night in Phuket. I'm not sure I could have mustered the energy for an all night dance party anyways by the end of my trip!

I'll end the post with some footage of one of the largest male orangutans in Semenggoh Wildlife Center/Orang Preserve in Borneo. Sorry for getting my finger in the shot! This time of year the orangs may not come to the twice daily feedings because they are able to get their own fruit off of the trees within the forest but I lucked out and saw three males. The orangs are extremely endangered so please consider donating a small amount to Orangutan Foundation International. You are never quite the same after you see them in person.
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